Mary Beth Writes

Like I wrote previously, our plan was to turn to the right at the bottom left hand side of the map (see below) and drive east to Nova Scotia and then shoot up to the 7-hour ferry that would schlep us to Newfoundland.

We’d already been driving about 3 days (with stops along the way) and there was at least two more ahead of us. You can see why most people fly…

We turned on the TV in our motel room to see if Hurricane Dorian had settled on a northward route yet.  We were aware, though not too concerned, that Dorian was still churning up the Atlantic.

The TV and radio and Internet news all announced precisely the same thing. “Maybe it will hit eastern Canada and maybe it won’t.”

We went out to dinner and decided to hang out on the Gaspé Peninsula of Quebec to give Dorian a few more days to clear the coast. 

The Gaspé Peninsula aka Gaspésie (official name) is a triangle of land that sort of looks like a dog’s paw sticking out into the Gulf of St. Lawrence. It is not simple to get there unless you are already at the northeast end of Quebec. Which, handily, we were.

Here is one of the larger truths we learned on our trip - looks can be very deceiving when one peruses a map of Canada. See how small the Gaspé Peninsula is?  We drove around the outer rim of it on a modest two-lane highway for five days. Yes, lots of advenures along the way but seriously, Five Days! 

Here are what to us were the stars of the Gaspé Peninsula show.

1. The houses! Many houses are very close to the coastal highway (20-30 feet is not unusual). One assumes this is because transportation was via water until the past century, when the connecting highway was built. I suppose they built as close to the sea’s edge as they conveniently and safely could. Park hyour boat out in front, as it were. 

The houses are super square with endearingly upright posture and awesome colors! Taffy gold, vivid greens, indigo and reds and pinks.  Often with contrasting trim. It’s a feast for the eyes and I’m glad we didn’t fly over!

2. That highway is super close to the rough and ready waves of the massive Gulf of St Lawrence. It’s a gorgeous drive on a calm day; on a stormy day I would stay home.

 3. The food is great and as I said to Len our first night on Gaspésie, “I didn’t drive this far to eat hamburgers!” We had chowder several times; it was expensive, but we didn’t much care because it was creamy rich with salmon, clams, lobster, and scallops. Also, we had locally crafted IPA beers every evening. I’ll tell you in some other post about ways we were thrifty; but we didn’t try to save money on dinners in local spots. 

Example: Me eating a lobster roll at a picnic table on a chilly evening, while watching the sun set on Perce Rock. With the IPA.

4. Percé Rock and Bonaventure Island! Yes, we SAW this!

 Percé Rock is just offshore from the village of Gaspé.  I took the ferry that cruised around this massive rock and then journeyed on to Bonaventure Island.  You can Wikipedia these places if you are interested in their longer and interesting stories.

Len gets motion sickness easily; he stayed ashore and had a good time walking, taking photos, and apparently camping out in the little French Boulangerie (bakery). I know this because the next morning, when we stopped there to get more of their amazing sourdough bread (my mouth is watering as I type this), the woman who owns the place smiled and said a familiar Bonjour in a “I know you!” tone of voice to Len.  Len is good at making friends over food. (The second time I met him, he brought an apple crisp.)

I didn’t know when I started out that I was going to have such a big adventure all by myself, but I did.

Bonaventure Island was populated by immigrants from Ireland and the island of Jersey in the late 1700’s. A couple dozen families lived there until government bought out the last few folks in the 1970’s. It is a bird sanctuary; more than 200 kinds of birds live here or at least stop by when migrating.

It is home to the largest Northern Gannet population on earth; more than 60,000 of these large, yellow-headed, NOISY, action-packed gulls live on Bonaventure.

I wanted to see them, so I took the tourist boat trip with fifty other folks, disembarked, listened to a ranger offer confusing instructions about how to cross the island to find the gannets. Most of the people from the boat were younger than me (sigh, that is happening more and more) and they went for the climbing path.  I chose the one the ranger said was not too strenuous but he didn’t clearly say where it started and by the time I found it, all the other bird gawkers were gone, and I was on my own.

Fine. I like to be alone. But as I trudged through 3.5 kilometers of rough terrain and some rough wooden steps and many foot paths that wended through blueberry and raspberry bushes … I began to wonder if Bonaventure has bears.  Probably not, I told myself. How could they even get here?  Too far to swim.

Oh, I remembered. In the winter people could walk across the ice. So I suppose bears could mosey on over if they woke up from hibernating and wanted to. Surely the ranger would have mentioned bears if they had them.  I decided to not worry about it. Too much. (There were no bears.)

Also, I forgot to bring my handy-dandy walking stick. And my new knee brace was slipping down my leg instead of bracing my knee. And I was sweating, even though the wind was chilly and strong.

Well, friends, as I walked I did the kilometers to miles math: about 4 rough miles tramping across and around that island. (If you look at Bonaventure blurbs on the internet, you will find people talking about how some 2-year olds do did this easily. Harrumph.)

I’m not a serious bird watcher, but those gannets! I loved them! They don’t just sit around and look pretty. They yell, peck, talk all day to their family and friends. The ones in the mood mate exuberantly right next to others who seem to be reciting bad poetry and singing old sea chanties. There were parents fussing over their large and fluffy children. Birds were flying in, flying out, scooping fish from the waves and bringing them back home.

 Also, when I was on my way back, I passed a young couple with a toddler, who, without even looking up at me, handing me a bunch of little pinecones. What a day.

…   

 Houses on the island from when it was populated.

I was here when the little boy handed me the pinecones.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Comments

Beautiful, ty

The pictures/all the colors are awesome! Sounds like a really fun adventure

OMG we travelled here too when I was a kid. I don’t remember the hike. I do remember the birds and the rock. And at this time in life, I sure do need those hiking polls. I am learning to take them along even if guides act like it is “easy.”
Leonard's picture

Maybe you looked like you needed pinecones.

Beautiful photos. Eagerly awaiting more of your saga.

What a courageous expedition! Bravo! It must have been so beautiful , and I wonder how many bears watched you go by! I hope Len welcomed you back from your voyage with a huge bag of French pastries ( and ian IPA)?

Loved your description of these social birds and your solo hike. Wonderful!
Mary Beth's picture

Thanks for all your comments so far! I was so inspired that I DID go back to find and post my old columns from Hurricane Charley in 2004....

Add new comment

CAPTCHA

This question is for testing whether or not you are a human visitor and to prevent automated spam submissions.

Quarantine Diary #108 6/30/2020 Woke Neighbors

I was quietly sitting here, just writing, when I heard yelling. I looked up and there was Modern America Right Here Right Now, in front of my house.

Cops had a car pulled over and were yelling at someone to come out. A black man with dreadlocks got out, hands in air, protesting and arguing to the cops. I couldn’t hear exactly what he was saying, but he was arguing respectfully. I heard his “Sir” several times. He was not swearing that I could hear.

Quarantine Diary #104 6/26/2020 Common Sense

This very small story has been lurking in my mind for decades and I have been thinking about it again, just recently.

One afternoon I overheard my dad complaining to my mom about schoolteachers. I suppose they were having a busy week in the print shop when a teacher from the high school dropped off, late in the day, a print job that needed to be completed in less time than was convenient. I’m guessing it was the school newspaper.

Quarantine Diary #101 6/23/2020 Today the Protest Came to Us

I keep saying Len and I are not going to protests because of Covid.

But then one came to us.

Late yesterday afternoon we heard that Mike Pence and Betsy DeVos would be at a meeting this morning at Saratoga STEM school here in Waukesha. It's three blocks from our house. 

The meeting was to talk about school choice. School choice is when you take taxpayer education funds away from local schools, change neighborhood schools into “choice schools” that will attract kids from outside that neighborhood and then you underfund the neighborhood school that's left.

Quarantine Diary #99 6/20/2020 "A bonfire of small changes ..."

This evening Trump is speaking to a political rally in a Tulsa venue that can hold 19,000 people. There will be no social distancing. The place is enclosed. Masks are optional. Boggles the mind.

Yesterday morning I went to a local Stein’s garden mecca to see if they have marigolds on sale yet. They don’t even have marigolds NOT on sale!

But this happened.

I wore a mask. There were only about six other people shopping while I was there and they were all masked, too. The clerk, working outside in that 85-degrees of drenching humidity, was also wearing a mask.

Quarantine Diary #97 Le Bistro de Garage..

People don’t need to care about “decorating and home design.” As long as one can live safely in their abode while getting done the things they need and want to get done, that’s civilization.

Quarantine Diary #93 6/14/2020 What happens when life goes on hold?

Since I stopped writing every day the Quarantine Diary number no longer precisely matches the number of days since I (we) fell into this pandemical rabbit hole. I just calculated. I started intentionally quarantining March 13th – which means I am now on day #93.  From now on, I will label the days since quarantine started, not how many diary entries I have written.  It’s more relevant to consider how long this has gone on. Your tally might vary by a few days, depending on when you realized you were in quarantine also.

Tag Cloud

17 minutes AARPtaxes AAUW Acadia Accountable apples Arrows Augustine baby balance Baldwin Barkskins Beauty Becky Berry birthday bistro BookReport boy scout Bread BrokenDays BuyAngry Cahokia calendars Canada cello Choosing Christmas cilantro Cinnabuns circus clouds Clowns clutter ComfortZone CommonSense consumerism Cops Corvid-19 Courage Covid-19 creditreport death December DecisionFatigue decluttering Detroit Dreams Duty eBay Eclipse FairTrade farmer firealarm Fitness Five Flexible flu Fort de Chartres frame Franc FrancGarcia friends frugal Frugality frustration Ft.Ticonderoga Gannets Garden GarfieldParkConservatory Gaspe genius geode ghosts GovernorThompsonStatePark groceries Guatemala guns happiness HaveYouEver? Healthinsurance HelleKBerry heroes hike History home HomeRepair Honduras HouseinBlueRiver hurricane impeachment Innkeeper integrity InternetPrivacy Interview InviteMe2Speak JoyceAndrews Judy JulianofNorwich justice Karen Lamb LangstonHuges LaphamPeak laundry LeeLeeMcKnight lemming Len Light Lincoln Little Women LockedOut Love Ludington Macaw Manitoulin MargaretFuller Maria Hamilton Marquette marriage Mayan MayaWorks MindfulChickens Mistakes Mother MothersDay mouser movies museums must-haves New York City Nomadland OscarRomero osprey Outside oximeter PastorBettyRendon Paul Hessert PDQ Penny persimmon poetry Preaching privacy Protest Quern quest Rabbit holes racism recipe recipes Reruns responsetoKapenga Retirement RitesofPassage Roses Ruth SamaritanWoman Sanctuary Sandhillcranes SaraRodriguez sculpture Sermon ServantsoftheQuest sewing Shepherd Shontay ShortStory sick sickness snow Social Security SofritoBandito SpaceShuttle spring square feet staining StoryStarts Survival taxes teenager Thanksgiving ThePerpetualYou ThreeBillBoards TidalBore TimeBeing toddler tortillas Trains travel Traveler Tubing turtle UnrelatedObservations urgency vacation Valentines vanilla Vietnam VivianWokeUpDrowning vole WalkingAndSeeing Wampanaog war WarsanShire weaving wedding WhyAttendChurch WillaCather
Ad Promotion